Going through the sienese landscape,
between Montalcino and the course of the Orcia river, the
Benedictine Abbey of Sant'Antimo presents itself like a revelation,
completely surrounded by high cypresses and centuries-old
olive trees, in a country still quite uncontaminated.
Traces that time has jealously preserved for us, as if it
wanted to preserve the memory of other times and different
life rhythms. Then, we pass without haste through the loose
earth driveway that brings us to the Abbey, so that this can
slowly reveal itself to our sight; and we remind the words
of a famous medieval chronicler, Rodolfo il Glabro, who noted
that Europe, on the verge of the year One Thousand, was fitting
herself out with a "white cloak of churches".
Making a stop in Sant'Antimo's monastic complex the peregrine
of yesterday, on a journey along the Via Francigena, could
find a shelter, and assistance for his own material and spiritual
needs. A prestigious example of the meeting between the French
and the Lombard Romanesque architecture, the Abbey was founded
at the epoch of Charlemagne, and then enlarged in the XII
century.
Inside the church, a quiet silence circulates among walls
and almost transparent alabaster columns. The darkness is
barely lighted up by some light blades that break in through
the narrow windows; extraordinary capitals, sculpted in relief,
unfold as in a fan a world of symbols whose meanings seem
nearly lost at the beginning of time. The abbey of Sant'Antimo
is probably the last place
in the whole of Italy where you can still listen the original
medieval "Gregorian" chants, thanks to the monks
who, still today, sing together with that marvellous magical
music.
Damiano Andreini
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